Trade Shows Are Back!

Trade Shows across the globe were busily urging exhibitors and buyers to organize their calendars. Exhibitors were being billed in advance, as ever, for the pleasure of flying or driving long distances to set up stands and displays. Foreign brands were organizing ATA Carnets aka “passport for goods” (which is the international customs document that permits the tax-free and duty-free temporary export) and commercial invoices, to be stamped by customs officials with their usual grace and patience.

And with it, came the reemergence of questions being asked before the onset of the global pandemic. The one BIG question continues to prevail-“Are Trade Shows Worth It?“

So, finally, we can see the beginning of the Post Covid era. Not everywhere, and not all at the same time. But slowly, very slowly, things are beginning going to get back towards something like normal. After 2 years of non-travel for most people, the world has woken, and business activity starts to increase towards pre pandemic times. With it began the first real cycle of Trade Shows throughout the USA and Europe since early 2020.

Trade shows’ rising costs, reduced attendance.

Even before the world closed down in 2020, the value of exhibiting at Trade Shows was being questioned. Rising costs, reduced numbers of attendees combined with multiplatform routes of sales have meant that exhibitors were less certain to show.

Traditionally of course, in pre social marketing times, if you were looking to launch a new brand or a new collection, the very best platform to get trade exposure was always at one of the various trade shows.

From the Salon de la Lingerie in Paris to Curve in New York, exhibitors planned their dates, set their budgets for spending and planned their collections and booth displays. Trade customers from around the world blocked weeks away from home and the business in order to see their brands and look for new designers and pick up on the latest prevailing trends.

In recent years, the real worth of showing and visiting has started to become less certain. The traditional retail landscape has changed significantly in the last decade, with the relentless growth online shopping eating away at the “bricks and mortar” stores.

Increasing costs in rental premiums, higher energy prices and staffing combined with lower customer footfall had put increasing pressure on the ‘High Street’.

And of course, if things were tough before Covid, the pandemic dealt the final blow to many established retailers large and small throughout the world. Neimann Marcus; Debenhams; Topshop; Lord and Taylor are just some of the many internationally renowned Groups who closed their doors for the final time in recent years.

Throughout the fashion and clothing sector, shops shuttered and many shopping streets and malls started to look half empty.

Those rising costs and reduced numbers had already been reflected in the performance of so many of the Trade Shows, which led many of us to wonder if any of the famous exhibitions would make a worthwhile return.

Trade show costs in booth rentals rose. Travel costs multiplied, and at the same time, visitor numbers were often down, in some cases. For example, attendance at Mode City in Paris was very much reduced.

In the end, most of the shows did take place, and some seemed more successful in their aims than others.

Throughout, the overwhelming vibe was, “it’s great to be back”. From Pitti Uomo in Florence to Magic in Vegas, there was a real buzz around the Halls.

Premiere Vision, the leading fabric and accessories show, had a very upbeat feel, and the same sense of optimism was apparent in the buildup to New York Curve.

However, Covid led to the cancellation of the largest of all the Lingerie Shows, The Paris Salon de la Lingerie which was a big blow to vendors and buyers alike.

The spike in the Covid figures also meant a large cluster of cancellations at Pitti Uomo. Having already “rolled over” the charges for the previous cancelled show, the organizers chose not to refund any monies to those brands who were unable to show; a decision which may lead to some push back in the future.

Of course, the major shows have always attracted a global customer base, particularly in Paris and in recent years have seen a large presence of customers and exhibitors from Asia.

It was particularly noticeable that even in Paris Fashion Week, the number of global customers was clearly down. Paul Alger, Director of International Affairs at the London based UK Fashion and Textile Association said, “the absence of Asian buyers was very noticeable”.

The continuing restrictions on travel in China and Korea meant that numbers were inevitably fewer, and this was apparent even in New York at Curve which was certainly quiet. One exhibitor remarked that “it was getting quieter before Covid, and we are a long way from returning to the old days yet”.

Within the exhibitor community, there is a lot of scepticism these days when Trade Show organisers release the attendance numbers. Seemingly, despite the experiences of so many booth holders, the numbers always seem to be up on previous years. We often wonder how they arrive at the figures. 

“We look at the numbers, but we don’t seem to see all those people” said one leading Distributor at Magic in Las Vegas.

Nevertheless, a special mention should be made for the Evolution Concept Show held in New York. This “boutique” expo, organized by the ever-enterprising Samantha Chang, featured hand-picked prestigious lingerie brands.

This was well attended, and exhibitors seemed very pleased with the organization and the welcome sales. Several brands felt that it was a much more worthwhile experience than showing at the larger and more corporate venues.

“Very well organized” was the verdict of Belgian brand, Pluto, who were amongst several who were pleased to open new accounts, and who intend to show at the next event at the end of July and in early August.

Perhaps the relative success of the smaller, and more focused salon is a better way forward for the more exclusive brands.

What is certain, is that the traditional, “one stop” method of reaching out to the retailers, has ceded to a much more multidimensional approach to sales. 

The big decision is to evaluate the best way for any particular brand to get the most return on their efforts and sales budgets. 

In this occasional series on Trade Shows and Exhibitions, we will be looking at the value in showing and visiting these events.

For some brands and startups, they remain the ideal forum for showing their collections and meeting clients, old and new from near and beyond.

The exhibition season remains the most important time for so many companies to connect and to book business. The shows continue to be the ideal forum to meet and to discover new and prevailing trends in design and commerce.

But, as we know, in recent years, there has been a seismic shift in the pattern of retailing. Bricks and mortar shopping has been drastically hit, affecting in-store business for larger groups and independents throughout the world.

At the same time as footfall becomes reduced, costs continue to rise, placing ever greater emphasis upon the newer and usually more cost-efficient channels of sale.

This trend is reflected for some brands in the reduced emphasis upon exhibiting at all of the available shows.

Cost and returns are reviewed ever more closely.

So, we will be looking at the different shows. We will try to get behind the hype and see which shows work best for certain sectors.

We will be looking at how best to maximize budgetary investment. We will be offering guidelines for new exhibitors. These will come from experienced and successful brand leaders who have experience of showing in leading trade shows throughout the globe.

Read next: Fab New Designers at Curve NYC!