Today we caught up with Gunni Hilmarson, the creative dynamo hailing from Reykjavik just before he headed out the door for a ‘Lost in Las Vegas’ themed Mafioso dinner with the lads – all dressed in white suits and black fedoras – while skillfully dodging Iceland’s volcanic eruptions.
In case you didn’t know, Gunni Hilmarson is one of Iceland’s top Scandipop musical sensations. Fresh from wrapping up his third album in collaboration with the talented actress and singer Ágústa Eva Erlendsdottir, they’ve been rocking European stages for a staggering six months with their band ‘Sycamore Tree.’
But that’s not all—Gunni is also the brilliant designer behind Kormákur & Skjöldur, a heritage Icelandic menswear brand. As if his plate isn’t full enough, he serves on the board of the Nordic Fashion Council and is a founding member of the Global Fashion Agenda, dedicated to promoting Nordic values of quality and sustainability.
And wait, there’s more! Gunni currently wears the hat of brand manager for the exciting new ready-to-wear label ‘Dita Von Teese by Lena Hoschek.’ Yes, you read that right. Dita. Von. Teese.
Dita is such an inspiration! She’s self-made, no nonsense, headstrong AND brilliant businesswoman.
gunni hilmarson
So, you can imagine that we were thrilled to have a long conversation with Gunni about everything he’s been up to. Let’s hear from Gunni in his own words.
You’re a renaissance man of many talents! You design multiple fashion lines, compose music – play guitar and piano, too? What is the creative process like for songwriting as compared to fashion design?
Gunni: Well, thank you! For me writing an album is the same process as making a collection. It starts with a base idea followed by research and creating a “world” to fill in the bits and pieces. I see “sound “and “look “as the same thing as it speaks to the same senses really and the heart! Then you have to write the music or sketch the styles and create the content itself. The whole process in both cases is a sensitive one that can have all kinds of problems and complications. In both cases the process involves most of the time many different people with different skills – and the key here is to choose them well!
What would you say has been your secret to success?
Gunni: I have one golden rule. That is to work only with people at least 3-4 times more talented than myself. It has been key to many successes.
Is it true that Dita has branched out from her burlesque themed lingerie brand?
Gunni: Yes, you heard that right – Dita’s not just about lingerie anymore – she’s secretly been creating a fabulous new RTW collection for three whole years!
Some of the best times are when you’re young and don’t really know how things work, so you are brave and fearless.
Gunni Hilmarson
So, we are right in anticipating some strong Christian Dior ‘New Look’ vibes?
Gunni: Yes, absolutely correct! Dita’s RTW collection effortlessly channels Dior’s signature small shoulders, nipped-in waists, curve-hugging bodices, and voluminous skirts—nostalgically reminiscent of the New Look. The overall effect of the daywear collection is elegant, tasteful, and understated. But it’s the evening gowns that serve up all the signature burlesque sass you’d expect from Dita, dripping with corset construction, wasp-waists and hip accentuating draping!
Fun fact: It’s 1947, Christian Dior unleashed the iconic New Look, and the world gasps in sartorial awe at the post-war fashion phoenix, rising from the ashes of rationed fabric and utility clothing to sprinkle a touch of luxury, opulence, and femininity the war-time wardrobes were desperately missing.
I have one golden rule. That is to work only with people at least 3-4 times more talented than myself.
Gunni hilmarson
What was it like teaming up with the fabulous Dita Von Teese?
Gunni: Dita is such an inspiration! She’s self-made, no nonsense, headstrong AND brilliant businesswoman. This new line we’ve been developing is based on Dita´s strong persona and style and of course with references to what she is famous for, which is a very unique and iconic look. And, I should say that it’s super fun to go out with her because when the paparazzi get wind of her appearance, you feel like part of the A list crowd!
What is involved in your role as brand manager for this exciting new label ‘Dita Von Teese by Lena Hoschek?
Gunni: As brand and marketing manager and a member of the design team, I’m responsible for pulling together the entire dream team of sales reps, spanning the UK, Europe, Asia, and the United States.
What is the history behind this design collaboration?
Gunni: Launched with the support of backers, the brand-new collection is an epic tag-team effort by Dita and the Austrian designer, Lena Hoschek. You know, Dita’s always had this burning desire to rock her own ready-to-wear line, and when she met Lena, it was like a match made in fashion heaven. They’re not veering too far from Lena’s signature style, which is all about that traditional Austrian flair. If you’ve ever indulged in the pleasures of a Renaissance Fair, you may find it is reminiscent of those costumes – with the ubiquitous dirndl skirts, tight fitting peplum jackets, low cut corsets and waist cinchers, with white flouncy blouses – but of course the garments are all beautifully made in the best factories in Europe. All the product development is made by hand in the most amazing design room in Vienna – it’s a hundred years old and there is a full floor of sample-makers!
Carry on. The future is what will define you. Not your past or your past mistakes.
gunni hilmarson
Photo credits @ Susanne Hassler-Smith
Why are Dita and Lena collaborating on this exciting project?
Gunni: Dita fell in love with Lena’s designs years ago – she’s been a long-time client, and they became friends. She always wanted to do her own brand and when the opportunity arose, she approached Lena to design it.
Can you tell us what the target market is?
Gunni: It’s entry level couture pricing for all age groups, and we are also offering a full range of sizes from XS to 3XL while still keeping the style shapes in all sizes. Women of all ages and sizes want to accentuate their curves. We are focusing on the European market, the United States, and Asia.
In the new ‘Dita Von Teese by Lena Hoschek collection’ there are several beautifully executed jackets and skirts in the collection. Were you able to infuse a hint of your expertise of menswear design into the collections?
Gunni: The parallel between Kormákur & Skjöldur and ‘Dita Von Teese by Lena Hoschek’ collection will be with similar attention to a high quality of craftsmanship, materials, and attention to detail. As I mentioned, the design studio in Vienna where it has been created is amazing – it’s over 100 years old, everything is done by hand and there is an entire floor of sample makers. The person who runs the studio is magical to work with. The line itself will be made in small specialty factories all over Europe – Portugal, Lithuania, Spain, for example.
Fun fact: adding a delightful twist, the entire collection is infused with an Austrian flair, courtesy of her collaboration with designer Lena Hoschek, paying homage to the country’s historical penchant for tight lacing, a tradition that would undoubtedly have the Von Trapp family raising an appreciative glass.
We want to hear how you joined Kormákur & Skjöldur!
Gunni: Well, it was started by two partners – yes, you guessed it – Kormákur (a drummer) & Skjöldur (a chef). I joined the company 12 years ago and initially offered to work for free! Now I’ve become a partner and took over as lead designer. Our proudest achievement is the creation of a high-quality tweed fabric made from entirely Icelandic wool which Kormákur and Skjöldur have worked to establish the unique Icelandic Tweed brand. The wool band is spun locally in Iceland and then it is woven in one of the finest mills in Europe.
Fun fact: The Icelandic leader-sheep, or Forystufé, is a breed of sheep unique to Iceland, and has inhabited this island for over 1100 years. They are both taller and leaner than regular sheep, they can sense weather changes, lead the rest of the flock to safety and always know the way back home. There is one farmer who collects wool from all the leader-sheep in Iceland and with that wool Kormákur & Skjöldur create a special Forystufé tweed product line.
We like to say that when you wear leader-sheep wool you will always find your way back home.
Kormákur & Skjöldur
Dish out your fashion philosophy for us!
Gunni: To make beautiful things that sell. I don´t look at myself on the fashion side of my life as an artist. Fashion is not art unless you are in haute couture. In my opinion designs that don’t sell are not worth anything except to the one that made them. I love to see people wear my designs as that is the whole purpose.
You mentioned that you are a self-taught fashion designer. What makes self-taught designers stand out in this world of fashion compared to those who took the traditional college route?
Gunni: That’s correct. I am not a formally educated designer. When I was in my 20´s there was no Fine Arts school in Iceland. I had to learn from working and had to become “ street smart “ very fast. I believe in most arts, if not all, you can not teach talent or “ sense “ for things. Same goes for music. Especially songwriting. It is hard to teach that art as it is very hard to simply understand how that happens or where it comes from. I would have loved however to be able to go to school to be a better illustrator or have more knowledge in pattern making but fashion is in the end of day about stamina and being able to work on deadlines and endless rejections.
Can you tell us about how you started your first fashion brand and what eventually happened to it?
Gunni: My first brand was called Reykjavik Collection. It was also my “crash course“ in fashion. I had to learn the whole process of designing, marketing and production. It was very successful for 4 years, then it went bust and I started to work abroad after that.
I’m curious about your journey into the world of fashion sales. Can you share your first experience trying to pitch your designs to retailers?
Gunni: It was an amazing experience. With the line ‘Reykjavik Collection’ we showed at Copenhagen Fashion Week and our booth was crammed with people from the first minute to last and orders were flying in. A dream start!
Wow, it sounds like you had quite the adventure as a young designer!
Gunni: Some of the best times are when you’re young and don’t really know how things work, so you are brave and fearless.
Do you have any fun stories of the early days as a designer?
Gunni: The first big job I had abroad was with the giant Bestseller in Denmark and their line Selected. I was young and ready to go so they hired me on the spot on a Friday. Before I left the room they asked, “You are of course very skilled in Illustrator and Photoshop?” I said “Yes totally! “ but I was lying. Never opened those programs in my life! I was supposed to show up at work on Monday! What I did is that I called 2 of my graphic designer friends, bought a lot of beer and told them they need to teach me 3 years of education in a weekend. I showed up on Monday all good.
What is the best lesson you learned from a failure or mistake?
Gunni: Carry on. The future is what will define you. Not your past or your past mistakes.
What’s your secret to the fountain of youth? Is it the Icelandic climate or water?
Gunni: Thank you! It means I look young! Well, I try….it is down to sleep, exercise, healthy diet, drink a lot of water and try to keep away as much as possible from the “bad things“ but you have to allow yourself some freedom as well. I have run 5 days a week for 20 years and I try to keep my sleep always on the same time. Working on many projects at the same time can be stressful so planning and discipline is key for a less stressful life. The Icelandic water and climate sure helps. Also, Iceland in general is a very active country so it helps pushing you to be that way.
Lastly, what do you love the most about being from Iceland?
Gunni: The nature. The space and the peaceful areas you can visit. Also there is so much energy coming from the earth here. Creative and positive energy. You can feel it when you are here. It’s both strong, rough and beautiful at the same time.
Read next: The Magic of the Lingerie Inspired Costumes of ‘Poor Things’!
