Business of Lingerie SHOPPING

Fabulous New Designers at Curve NYC Lingerie Trade Show!

The puzzle of trade shows in 2022.

The Curve NYC show has long since been the stalwart trade show of the international lingerie scene.

Every year, lingerie professionals gather at the Javits Center to scope out what’s new in undergarment fashion. From big brand names to emerging businesses, Curve NYC has always been an exciting and bustling microcosm of the lingerie international industry at large.

That all being said, after the events of the last two years, Curve NYC 2022 was faced with a critical challenge: how do you leverage an in-person trade show within an increasingly digitized marketplace? This is not a new challenge; in the past two decades, the rise of the internet as a tool for showing, buying, and selling has totally transformed the industry. Additionally, the pandemic and its ravaging impact on brick-and-mortar businesses brought Curve’s most pressing existential concerns to the surface. This impact is reflected in the makeup of the show’s participants; in 2020, sources reported to ‘Unhooked’ there were approximately 250 retail visitors to the show; whereas in 2021, there were only 150 – and a guesstimate for the most recent show was around 100 visitors.

…In a world where virtual showroom visits on Zoom have become the norm, what is Curve’s place in the future of the lingerie ecosystem?

Curve 2022 happened in NYC last week, in-person, and I was really excited to attend a live event. As soon as I entered the space, I was struck by not only a shift in energy (quieter and more intimate), but by a change in my attention. In the past, I would have immediately gravitated towards the familiar brand names, taking up the majority of the event space with large booths and decked out displays. This year, however, I was far more intrigued by a handful of small, up-coming businesses, inhabiting more humble stations and focusing their efforts on smaller, more unique collections. In this new world we find ourselves in, I think that these types of companies, that are designing with deep intention and from the heart, are the future of lingerie, and the future of Curve. In that spirit, I am happy to share Unhooked Magazine’s official list of highlights from the Curve NYC show.

In this new world we find ourselves in, I think that the companies that are designing with deep intention and from the heart, are the future of lingerie.

Paris, unhooked magazine

ASPEN DREAM

Almost immediately upon my entry in the Curve show, my eye was drawn to an array of neatly lined up, colorfully printed pajamas. As I walked over, my hand naturally lifted to graze the material. OMG. SO SOFT. I introduced myself to the owner, Kate, who told me the story of her brand, Aspen Dream.

'Aspen Dreams' pajamas! OMG. SO SOFT! All of the whimsical patterns are hand drawn and inspired by both the seasonality and culture of Colorado. Click To Tweet

Aspen Dream was founded in (you guessed it) Colorado by two women. The idea to focus on pajamas and lounge wear originated with the hopes of creating a 5-minute pajama: something that she could quickly dress her baby up in that was simultaneously comfortable, cozy, and cute enough to leave the house. Soon enough, people were asking how they could get their hands on the same soft fabric in bigger sizes! All of the whimsical patterns are hand drawn and inspired by both the seasonality and culture of Colorado. Aspen Dream utilizes a variety of fabrics, most interestingly Bamboo, which provides temperature control, grows without the use of fertilizers, and pesticides and is 100% hypoallergenic. 

Carol Coelho Intimates

I find in this day and age, with access to so much sensory stimuli online, it is hard to be truly “wowed” by anything. Well, I was “wowed” by Carol Coehlo’s booth.

Carol Coehlo’s collection of black and while intimates.

Browsing through Carol’s collection at Curve NYC was like walking through a fairy garden of flower appliqués, intricate lace patterns, and tulle. Her line is just so pretty. She juxtaposes different textiles in a very beautiful way to create unique and feminine designs. Her lingerie has a bridal sensibility, which makes sense because Brazilian born and raised Carol has a background in custom-made evening and wedding gowns. In fact, her lingerie line was born from a bride requesting she design her nuptial lingerie. Her collection now expands beyond bridal, including bras, panties, bodysuits, robes and nightgowns. She sells globally and produces in Brazil, Colombia, New York and India.

Browsing through Carol's collection was like walking through a fairy garden of flower appliqués, intricate lace patterns, and tulle. Her line is just so pretty. Click To Tweet
Exquisite lace robe from Carol Coehlo.

Endorfinella

Endorfinella’s line is classic lingerie done well: chemises, pajamas, robes, and camisoles, available in a range of colors, patterns, and fabrics (including silk).

Beautifully made silk classics by Endorfinella.

One of the first questions I always ask when speaking to a business is where they produce their goods. While I never pass judgement on a company that chooses to produce abroad, it is always interesting to engage in a conversation with a company that produces locally about the economics and ethics of local production. Endorfinella was one of two businesses that I spoke with at Curve that is 100% designed and produced in the same place: Poland. Endorfinella’s line is classic lingerie done well: chemises, pajamas, robes, and camisoles, available in a range of colors, patterns, and fabrics (including silk). They’re a one-stop shop in a lot of ways for staple intimates. Endorfinella distributes widely in their home country, with products available in more than 100 partner stores in Poland, as well as 30 worldwide.

One of Fabulous New Designers at Curve NYC Lingerie Trade Show! Endorfinella's line is classic lingerie done well: chemises, pajamas, robes, and camisoles, available in a range of colors, patterns, and fabrics (including silk) &… Click To Tweet
Classic silk charmeuse slip and robe by Endorfinella.

fishbelly lingerie

Fishbelly really emphasizes the fun, flirty, and naughty side of lingerie, with a wide-ranging collection including pieces adorned in tassels and fringe, open cut bras and panties, and cheeky feather tails.

'Fishbelly'? What an interesting name for a lingerie company – I had to learn more! When I approached the booth, my eye was caught by a rack full of fun and saucy undergarments.. Click To Tweet
Fishbelly lingerie is flirty and fun! (Photo by SEXY BLUE BOUTIQUE)

At Curve this year, there was an entire section of the show devoted to German designers. Each booth in this section was illuminated with a neon sign. I was immediately attracted to one such entitled “fishbelly.” What an interesting name for a lingerie company – I had to learn more. When I approached the booth, my eye was caught by a rack full of fun and saucy undergarments. I asked the owner, Jutta Teschner, how she came up with the name for the lingerie brand. She said that when she had first founded her company and named it, she was working in a different industry; so, when she transitioned to lingerie, she had to stick with the name because she had already registered the business. We love an eccentric origin story! And the line matches the whimsy of the name. Fishbelly really emphasizes the fun, flirty, and naughty side of lingerie, with a wide-ranging collection including pieces adorned in tassels and fringe, open cut bras and panties, and cheeky feather tails.

Timpa Lingerie

Timpa Lingerie knows what it’s doing and is doing it well. Timpa is a company geared towards small-busted and petite women. Simplicity is key with this collection, but by no means does that have to mean boring or uninspired.

Marigold bra and panty from Timpa
Timpa Lingerie’s bestselling set, the Alice demi bra and thong. in a new color: marigold.
Made in their iconic super soft and stretchy lace, the Alice bra is loved by small chest customers because it provides a nice lift without any padding!

Timpa Lingerie knows what it’s doing and is doing it well. Timpa is a company geared towards small-busted and petite women. Simplicity is key with this collection, but by no means does that have to mean boring or uninspired: Timpa evokes French-girl chicness and style, perhaps a reflection of the owner who is French herself. Their collection is small, offering bras in a couple different styles, panties, and a slip dress. The goal of their designs is to naturally enhance the silhouette of the small frame and provide shape without sacrificing comfort; they use lightweight and soft materials to achieve this. Their booth at Curve matched their commitment to consistency and quality, with the highlight being a rack of their bestselling Alice demi bra. The Alice is unpadded, made with stretchy lace to provide lift and shape, offered in a wide array of appealing colors with luxurious names, such as Marigold.

Timpa Lingerie knows what it's doing and is doing it well. Timpa is a company geared towards small-busted and petite women. Timpa evokes French-girl chicness and style! Click To Tweet

ZHE by Karyn Elizabeth

As I approached ZHE by Karyn Elizabeth’s booth, I knew I was about to encounter something special. For one, there was a trail of glitter casting a 5-foot halo around the display.

As I approached ZHE by Karyn Elizabeth’s booth, I knew I was about to encounter something special. For one, there was a trail of glitter casting a 5-foot halo around the display. However, spectacle is not what makes Karyn’s line stand out; it is that she has designed a truly innovative product in a field that has historically been pretty clearly defined. The mother of a transgender daughter, Karyn is the founder and designer of ZHE, a lingerie company geared towards transgender women and gender nonconforming people at every stage of their journey. The signature product, a compression panty, is designed meticulously to meet both form and function. The Bella Collection Full Compression Panty is modern and sexy while also offering full coverage, a wider gusset for comfort, a supportive multi-layer compression front panel and a smooth non sheer microfiber main front panel, and a sheer back. Karyn was very gracious and patient in explaining the mechanics of her product to those who might not be educated in the subject. Karyn and her inclusive lingerie line truly represent the best of Curve and what the future of fashion will look like.

Karyn and her inclusive lingerie line, 'Zhe by Karyn Elizabeth', truly represent the best of Curve and what the future of fashion will look like! Click To Tweet

Apilat Wedding

Apilat is a Ukraine-based company dedicated to luxurious, glamorous, and utterly gorgeous custom made-order wedding lingerie sets.

Apilat Wedding is a Ukraine-based online-only company dedicated to luxurious wedding garments. Every year, Apilat Wedding creates one wedding dress collection and two wedding lingerie collections, characterized by hand-stitched embroidery, French seams, and high-quality fabric. Founded by sisters Galyna and Lyubov, Apilat Wedding is dedicated to cultivating a magical mood for brides. This collection is truly stunning. Their expertly crafted clothing evokes a romantic, vintage, femme fatale aesthetic, with long panels of mesh, lace, and crepe de chine, swooping sleeves, and beautiful details such as bows, feathers, and flower appliqués. Given the current crisis in Ukraine, we hope and pray for their safety.

Apilat is a Ukraine-based lingerie company dedicated to luxurious wedding garments – peignoirs, marabou trimmed robes, tulle ruffles and lace – Fabulous! We hope and pray for their safety. Click To Tweet

Brooke Ullman

Last but not least, Brooke Ullman, who is a recent graduate of F.I.T. and showing her bridal themed collection for the first time at Curve.

At her Curve debut, Brooke Ullman previewed her undergraduate thesis project, a beautiful arrangement of white garments, meticulously handcrafted down to the hand-beaded detail. Her line evokes a modern French Rococo bridal theme, with a sexy twist on a classic structured bustier, beaded waist cincher, and sheer petticoat. I was impressed by Brooke’s handiwork, particularly a pair of pantyhose patched with lace appliqués that create the illusion of ethereally lacy skin. Brooke is certainly an up-and-comer in the industry and I’m excited to see what she does next!

Brooke Ullman was one of the Fabulous New Designers at Curve NYC Lingerie Trade Show! Her line evokes a modern French Rococo bridal theme, with a sexy twist on a classic! Click To Tweet

…We also had an opportunity to chat with Asi Efros, who hosted the Lingerie Briefs’ Salon, a new showcase for smaller or up-and-coming brands at Curve NYC. Read our interview with Asi below!

Q. Will the Lingerie Briefs Salon be a regular booth at Curve going forward? 
A. Yes, I believe that Lingerie Briefs Salon will be a regular collective at Curve NY and hopefully at Curve LA and Montreal going forward. The Salon has been a resounding success with more than 100 visitors—buyers, press, and trend services. Among them were teams of Victoria’s Secret, Journelle, and Top Drawer Lingerie, The Doneger Group, WGSN, Fashion Snoops, and even a representative of the Royal Danish Consulate.

Q. How were the designers selected?
A. The lingerie gallery was curated by both Ellen Lewis and Alison Connolly, a former owner of the renowned Faire Frou Frou lingerie boutique in Los Angeles. The brands were selected for their creative expertise and entrepreneurial approach to the ever-evolving Lingerie Market. “The collections highlighted in this space lean into our mission to prove that “Lingerie is the Poetry in a Woman’s Wardrobe”, said Ellen.

Q. Do you see any new trends emerging? For example, in your opinion are we moving away from the loungewear trend after 2 years of Covid? 
A. It was evident from the garments, which designers presented at the exhibition, that the “innerwear as outerwear” concept was prevalent. By arming their garments with multifunctionality, lingerie designers encourage the owners of these precious pieces to be creative and express their true selves in the most powerful way.

Q. Given the reaction at Curve, do you believe there is still a market for luxury lingerie?

A. Absolutely! However, luxury lingerie today is designed and produced by women for women. It is also purchased by women for themselves as opposed to being gifted to women by men. I see that luxury lingerie is experiencing a major rebirth and liberation. It’s being powered by the new generation of super-creative young designers that internalize the movement of slow fashion. Many garments and collections at the Salon were masterfully handcrafted rendering them collectibles or artifacts. These garments will be cherished by generations and not disposed of, which is what we are looking for in the realm of eco-consciousness and sustainability.

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