Fabulous New Designers at Curve NYC Lingerie Trade Show!

The Curve NYC show has long since been the stalwart trade show of the international lingerie scene.

That all being said, after the events of the last two years, Curve NYC 2022 was faced with a critical challenge: how do you leverage an in-person trade show within an increasingly digitized marketplace? This is not a new challenge; in the past two decades, the rise of the internet as a tool for showing, buying, and selling has totally transformed the industry. Additionally, the pandemic and its ravaging impact on brick-and-mortar businesses brought Curve’s most pressing existential concerns to the surface. This impact is reflected in the makeup of the show’s participants; in 2020, sources reported to ‘Unhooked’ there were approximately 250 retail visitors to the show; whereas in 2021, there were only 150 – and a guesstimate for the most recent show was around 100 visitors.

…In a world where virtual showroom visits on Zoom have become the norm, what is Curve’s place in the future of the lingerie ecosystem?

Curve 2022 happened in NYC last week, in-person, and I was really excited to attend a live event. As soon as I entered the space, I was struck by not only a shift in energy (quieter and more intimate), but by a change in my attention. In the past, I would have immediately gravitated towards the familiar brand names, taking up the majority of the event space with large booths and decked out displays. This year, however, I was far more intrigued by a handful of small, up-coming businesses, inhabiting more humble stations and focusing their efforts on smaller, more unique collections. In this new world we find ourselves in, I think that these types of companies, that are designing with deep intention and from the heart, are the future of lingerie, and the future of Curve. In that spirit, I am happy to share Unhooked Magazine’s official list of highlights from the Curve NYC show.

Aspen Dream was founded in (you guessed it) Colorado by two women. The idea to focus on pajamas and lounge wear originated with the hopes of creating a 5-minute pajama: something that she could quickly dress her baby up in that was simultaneously comfortable, cozy, and cute enough to leave the house. Soon enough, people were asking how they could get their hands on the same soft fabric in bigger sizes! All of the whimsical patterns are hand drawn and inspired by both the seasonality and culture of Colorado. Aspen Dream utilizes a variety of fabrics, most interestingly Bamboo, which provides temperature control, grows without the use of fertilizers, and pesticides and is 100% hypoallergenic. 

Browsing through Carol’s collection at Curve NYC was like walking through a fairy garden of flower appliqués, intricate lace patterns, and tulle. Her line is just so pretty. She juxtaposes different textiles in a very beautiful way to create unique and feminine designs. Her lingerie has a bridal sensibility, which makes sense because Brazilian born and raised Carol has a background in custom-made evening and wedding gowns. In fact, her lingerie line was born from a bride requesting she design her nuptial lingerie. Her collection now expands beyond bridal, including bras, panties, bodysuits, robes and nightgowns. She sells globally and produces in Brazil, Colombia, New York and India.

One of the first questions I always ask when speaking to a business is where they produce their goods. While I never pass judgement on a company that chooses to produce abroad, it is always interesting to engage in a conversation with a company that produces locally about the economics and ethics of local production. Endorfinella was one of two businesses that I spoke with at Curve that is 100% designed and produced in the same place: Poland. Endorfinella’s line is classic lingerie done well: chemises, pajamas, robes, and camisoles, available in a range of colors, patterns, and fabrics (including silk). They’re a one-stop shop in a lot of ways for staple intimates. Endorfinella distributes widely in their home country, with products available in more than 100 partner stores in Poland, as well as 30 worldwide.

At Curve this year, there was an entire section of the show devoted to German designers. Each booth in this section was illuminated with a neon sign. I was immediately attracted to one such entitled “fishbelly.” What an interesting name for a lingerie company – I had to learn more. When I approached the booth, my eye was caught by a rack full of fun and saucy undergarments. I asked the owner, Jutta Teschner, how she came up with the name for the lingerie brand. She said that when she had first founded her company and named it, she was working in a different industry; so, when she transitioned to lingerie, she had to stick with the name because she had already registered the business. We love an eccentric origin story! And the line matches the whimsy of the name. Fishbelly really emphasizes the fun, flirty, and naughty side of lingerie, with a wide-ranging collection including pieces adorned in tassels and fringe, open cut bras and panties, and cheeky feather tails.

Timpa Lingerie knows what it’s doing and is doing it well. Timpa is a company geared towards small-busted and petite women. Simplicity is key with this collection, but by no means does that have to mean boring or uninspired: Timpa evokes French-girl chicness and style, perhaps a reflection of the owner who is French herself. Their collection is small, offering bras in a couple different styles, panties, and a slip dress. The goal of their designs is to naturally enhance the silhouette of the small frame and provide shape without sacrificing comfort; they use lightweight and soft materials to achieve this. Their booth at Curve matched their commitment to consistency and quality, with the highlight being a rack of their bestselling Alice demi bra. The Alice is unpadded, made with stretchy lace to provide lift and shape, offered in a wide array of appealing colors with luxurious names, such as Marigold.

As I approached ZHE by Karyn Elizabeth’s booth, I knew I was about to encounter something special. For one, there was a trail of glitter casting a 5-foot halo around the display. However, spectacle is not what makes Karyn’s line stand out; it is that she has designed a truly innovative product in a field that has historically been pretty clearly defined. The mother of a transgender daughter, Karyn is the founder and designer of ZHE, a lingerie company geared towards transgender women and gender nonconforming people at every stage of their journey. The signature product, a compression panty, is designed meticulously to meet both form and function. The Bella Collection Full Compression Panty is modern and sexy while also offering full coverage, a wider gusset for comfort, a supportive multi-layer compression front panel and a smooth non sheer microfiber main front panel, and a sheer back. Karyn was very gracious and patient in explaining the mechanics of her product to those who might not be educated in the subject. Karyn and her inclusive lingerie line truly represent the best of Curve and what the future of fashion will look like.

Apilat Wedding is a Ukraine-based online-only company dedicated to luxurious wedding garments. Every year, Apilat Wedding creates one wedding dress collection and two wedding lingerie collections, characterized by hand-stitched embroidery, French seams, and high-quality fabric. Founded by sisters Galyna and Lyubov, Apilat Wedding is dedicated to cultivating a magical mood for brides. This collection is truly stunning. Their expertly crafted clothing evokes a romantic, vintage, femme fatale aesthetic, with long panels of mesh, lace, and crepe de chine, swooping sleeves, and beautiful details such as bows, feathers, and flower appliqués. Given the current crisis in Ukraine, we hope and pray for their safety.

At her Curve debut, Brooke Ullman previewed her undergraduate thesis project, a beautiful arrangement of white garments, meticulously handcrafted down to the hand-beaded detail. Her line evokes a modern French Rococo bridal theme, with a sexy twist on a classic structured bustier, beaded waist cincher, and sheer petticoat. I was impressed by Brooke’s handiwork, particularly a pair of pantyhose patched with lace appliqués that create the illusion of ethereally lacy skin. Brooke is certainly an up-and-comer in the industry and I’m excited to see what she does next!

…We also had an opportunity to chat with Asi Efros, who hosted the Lingerie Briefs’ Salon, a new showcase for smaller or up-and-coming brands at Curve NYC. Read our interview with Asi below!

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