Today we are thrilled to interview Skye Della Santa, COO of Prototype Global Inc., who is going to tell us everything she knows about manufacturing lingerie in Bali, Indonesia
From a manufacturers point of view, what are some examples of typical mistakes new designers make when starting out?
Skye: There are a number of mistakes that new fashion designers might make when starting out – we see them often and try our best to educate our clients before these mistakes happen. It’s important for fashion designers to have a good understanding of the production process, including materials, techniques, and lead times. This can help ensure that their designs are feasible and can be produced efficiently.
it’s rather like going down the rabbit hole – a new designer will find a lot of dead ends, take wrong turns as they get started! How can they get on the right path from the start?
Skye: First and foremost, by allowing enough time! Fashion design projects often have tight deadlines, but it’s important to allow enough time for production to ensure that the final product meets the designer’s standards. Rushing production can lead to mistakes and poor-quality products.
Some designers are coming from famous design schools, and you often see others coming from corporate positions, ready to take the fashion world by storm. What are the most common problems you see?
Skye: Unrealistic expectations and poor relationship management: new brand founders often are so excited, so pumped about their new brand that they become a bit grandiose and oftentimes their expectations about the process and their place in the industry isn’t carefully considered. It’s important for new brands to realize that they are building a team, not buying a product.
I think what you’re saying is – in the world of manufacturing, the customer is NOT always right?
Skye: Hiring manufacturing or other design services is nothing like shopping. It’s a complicated relationship in which all parties need to be sensitive to the needs of the other parties involved. A poor relationship and unrealistic expectations are the most common cause startups fail in fashion.
How can a new designer on a small budget can start a relationship with a manufacturer?
Skye: It’s very important to do your research when working with a manufacturer. Not all manufacturers work with smaller lower quantity brands so it’s important to find the right one that can help you in these initial stages. Here at Prototype, we work with MOQs as low as 150 pieces, which is a great starting point if you are testing the waters with your brand.
Well, it sounds like you act as a factory, and a mentor for new designers. That sounds like a lot of work!
Skye: Small MOQ orders are more challenging and not financially rewarding, to be quite honest, but we understand that all brands have to start somewhere, and we really put the extra effort in to guide our emerging brands through the initial process. We try to be a resource to help brands through that awkward phase of growth where you’re ready to begin, but not quite big enough to be able to buy the resources that you’ll need. By aggregating the needs of many small brands, Prototype offers services to startups that are usually reserved for much more established brands.
Do you offer options for new brands who are just dipping their toes in the water, so to speak – designers who want to test the quality of product from Indonesia?
Skye: For our clients who are not yet ready to take the plunge with their own designs we offer a White Label Service where our customers can choose from our already existing design capsules and they can customize them to suit, by picking the fabric/ colors/ prints and adding any personal logos. This is a great option for the lower budget clients starting out, as you can bypass the expensive and time-consuming product development process and step straight into a low MOQ of 50 pieces.
A typical collection has many pieces – a soft cup bra, underwire bra, panties, thongs, robe, camisole, chemise etc. in a variety of colors/lace. However, this is a problem for production. How do you recommend that a new designer put together a collection?
Skye: This is all dependent on budget and volume. Higher volume per style/color is always going to be the best way to have the most efficient pricing structure, so we recommend if budget is an issue, it’s better to keep it simple. Then, as you grow, you can expand your collection to include more colorways and styles.
In other words, either keep it simple or be ready for big investment. Otherwise, there’s just no way to have a low volume of a wide variety of pieces. Unless, of course, you use a seamstress or make them yourself, which is how most designers start out in retail.
Skye Della Santa, Prototype Global inc.
Obviously, the fewer number of pieces in a collection would be easier to produce but you can’t have only 2 or 3 pieces to show a customer! From a manufacturing perspective, is it better to limit the range of colors or limit the styles?
Skye: Well, if you think of the basis of each style as a “block”, then you picture how many different versions (styles) of that block you might be able to offer, then you’re on the right track. The costs are in developing blocks, not variations of that block.
From a manufacturers point of view, we want as many pieces as possible per color and per style. So, it’s really a matter of what works best for your brand, whether you could sell a simple array of blocks in a wide variety of colors, or a single color with a wider variety of blocks. Arguably, fewer colors may be a bit more efficient, because you’re also buying more quantity of a single color of fabric. At large volume, there’s significant savings that way.
When a new designer puts together a collection, they often test a lot of styles in a mix of sizes and colors. They want to find out what the customers will buy. However, this can leave the designer with a headache when they are trying to produce too many samples. How can a designer avoid this scenario?
Skye: Fortunately, this can be easily managed by utilizing 3D or other visualization techniques. Buyers are more interested in the fit and feel of the product, they don’t necessarily need to see and feel every color and print option that you might offer. At Prototype, our digital-first process allows clients to generate a wide variety of virtual products for their look book without having to create samples. It’s a huge cost savings and is much more efficient.
Is there a way to organize and produce a cutting ticket with multiple styles and quantities? How would a manufacturer handle it?
Skye: Yes, software will enable this. However, the only way you’re going to be able to utilize a really sophisticated cutting technique is at a sophisticated factory. So, you just have to keep in mind that small factories that generally work with startups are not going to have access to this kind of equipment and expertise.
Everything You Need to Know About Manufacturing Lingerie in Bali! Share on XDoes Prototype have MOQ’s (minimum order quantities)?
Skye: Yes, but depends on the type of item, how it’s manufactured, what equipment is required and what type of materials it contains. If it’s from our pre-designed white label collection, you can customize many pieces at the low MOQ of 50 pieces! This is great for the beginner designers. If you have your own custom designs, MOQs typically start at about 150 pieces per color and per style. However, if it’s something more precious and very detailed – for example a leather jacket or a high-end gown – we can often offer lower MOQs.
Designer no-no: “The perfect final touch is a silk velvet ribbon from Etsy that costs $25 a yard.”
Commonly, a designer makes samples with fabrics, laces, and trims with supplies which later on they can’t buy in wholesale quantities – or can’t afford. Often, this becomes a production problem. How would you recommend sourcing supplies for sample-making?
Skye: We always tell clients to feel free to design what they love, but don’t “fall in love” with your ideas. Moving your designs into manufacturing will require flexibility. Designers will need to be able to adapt to changing availability in the supply chain and be nimble enough to always have a Plan B, C & D.
Being stubborn will kill the brand faster than anything else. That’s something you’ll rarely hear from courses and coaches.
Skye Della Santa, Prototype Global inc.
On the subject of sampling, it seems like a good idea to have the manufacture create the sample collections – can Prototype create samples for a designer?
Skye: This is the trickiest bit about the fashion industry. A manufacturer will be happy to make you samples, IF you can make it financially rewarding for them to do so. Simply promising them that they’ll make money off you at some future date if your brand takes off is NOT the kind of assurance they need. They’re WAY too jaded to take your word for it.
But how are you going to be able to move forward without samples and pricing? That’s a Catch 22!
Skye: At Prototype, we DO create samples, but they can be costly. That’s why our workflow is “digital-first”. We bring designers as far along as possible using a digital-only workflow, then we move into the process of physical samples when they are ready.
What are the steps for sample making?
Skye: The Holy Trinity of fashion manufacturing is the tech pack, graded patterns, and final samples… In that order. You can go far with just a tech pack and patterns. Those are the DNA of the design. The sample comes along only after those 2 steps are complete. It’s commonly to skip steps, but without following the correct process, failure is almost assured.
How do you get on the same page for sourcing fabric/trims and findings supplies for samples & production with the designer?
Skye: Swatchon is a a great source for manufacturers and designers to get on the same page with the fabric supply chain. South Korea has the most amazing high-quality fabrics, and a huge selection.
One of the great positives of working with Swatchon is that they offer low MOQ’s and have a very stable supply of fabrics.
Skye Della Santo, Prototype Global inc.
What are the benefits of manufacturing in Indonesia? Are there any local techniques that a designer can integrate into their collections?
Skye: Being based in Indonesia allows us to have access to some of the most creative, knowledgeable and highly skilled local creators. It’s a great place to manufacture things that need a lot of handwork, like beading, sequins, etc. This is one of the reasons why we based ourselves here. The skill level is high, and we really want to showcase this to the world.
Are there types of lingerie styles that Prototype is not equipped to make – or a range of styles or fabrications that Prototype is really good at making?
Skye: We are particularly good at working with stretch materials, such as lace, PowerNet. Overall, however, we have a very wide range of capabilities across most styles.
Given that any one small detail – such as elastic with the incorrect amount of stretch – changes the fit of an intimate apparel garment, isn’t it important to double check every stage of production? How can a designer check 1st production samples before going to full production with a manufacturer overseas?
Skye: In order to assure that the fit remains consistent, the most important thing is to purchase IN ADVANCE, all the supplies you will need for the production and use those materials in your final production samples. That’s best practice for eliminating surprises during production. You just never, ever can be 100% sure about anything, so all your processes should be designed to reduce your risk.
What if there are corrections to a 1st production sample and a need for a corrected production sample? What process does you recommend for this?
Skye: Great question. That’s what a strong tech pack and patterns are for. There shouldn’t really be any significant changes that would require any major delay if those have been done properly. Most commonly, however, they have not and it’s irritating to the manufacturer to suddenly find themselves thrown into the design process and performing services they weren’t paid to do. So, to avoid that, the style should be 100% ready for manufacturing, prior to securing a manufacturer and requesting samples. Otherwise, you run the risk of burning a bridge you might really regret later.
How about checking the fit of the size range in pre-production. How is that done?
Skye: At Prototype, we rely first on digital fittings to get the fit and pattern as close as possible, before we move into the final, physical fitting process. We recommend that designers produce a fit sample of every size they intend to offer and make sure to take the process seriously. The biggest enemy of any fashion brand is RETURNS. And the most common cause for returns is fit. So, the cost of doing fittings properly during the development process is a wise investment over the long haul.
The final production quality check – how is this handled?
Skye: Quality Assurance processes vary based on the quantity of goods and the specific factory being used. Bigger factories always have better quality assurance. Annoying, but true. They’re able to because the higher volume means thinner margins and they have a lot more to lose if the goods are rejected. If you’re manufacturing at low MOQ, you unfortunately have to be a bit more flexible on quality, unless you’re paying a premium price.
What about help for a new designer with import/export – shipping & customs agent/expeditor etc. – can you elaborate on this process?
Skye: We always recommend that clients contact a shipper in their particular area and develop a relationship with them. They’re best positioned to keep you above the law and everything moving smoothly.
Shipping costs have a big impact on price of the garment. For example, air freight costs are expensive but shipping by sea is very slow. How can a designer control shipping costs and still get goods in a timely manner?
Skye: Volume is the best way to keep your costs low. Bigger volume = lower price per unit. If larger volume isn’t a option, then you’ll need to just build those costs into your product and hope that the power of your brand and the power of your story are powerful enough that consumers are willing to pay that extra price. Very typically, with a strong brand, they absolutely are. But it really comes down to the right type of branding and messaging.
What kind of contract does a manufacturer normally have with the designer? What are the most important points that a new designer should be aware of?
Skye: If you’re a big brand, with a big MOQ, you typically hold the most cards. And you have a lot of flexibility in what manufacturer you work with and what the terms of the agreement will be. As well as cost, of course.
Smaller brands, however, quite frankly need to keep their egos in check because when you’re small, the manufacturers hold all the cards. They may act like they’re doing you a favor by even manufacturing your goods, and in actual fact, that may be true. The profit margins are thin, and the risks are high, so the manufacturers are generally making a very small profit, or none, from small orders.
Skye Della Santa, Prototype
Skye: That’s why we always tell people that it’s really all about building a team. It’s not a case of “the customer is always right” in the fashion industry. That’s a concept that belongs to retail, NOT manufacturing. The reality is that you need to build a relationship of trust with your manufacturer and make sure that you’re looking out for their interests as well as your own. Your supply chain is always going to be your biggest Achilles heel and you want to have a great relationship with suppliers.
What percentage should a designer normally expect to put down as payment towards production?
Skye: For small to mid-size orders, the down payment on a manufacturing order will be 50% of the total cut & sew labor, plus materials.
Buyers have cancelations dates on their orders. What happens if the production runs late, and the shipment has to go by air? Who pays for that?
Skye: Bigger brands with high volume production will have the ability to negotiate terms like this. Small brands will not have the leverage to obtain these types of guarantees. The factories already stand to make hardly any profit from any smaller orders, so they wouldn’t be interested if they were expected to carry additional liability. Buyers should carry insurance to cover themselves if their contracts are sensitive. Otherwise, it’s just a buyer-beware industry with very few enforceable guarantees.
Given that the consumer is used to faster fashion deliveries, there still is a logical and practical timeline from sample to final production – What is a reasonable timeline from start to finish?
Skye: There’s really no way to estimate timeline because every client has their own process, level of preparedness and communication style. Between that, and supply chain considerations, only experience will really define the timeline between any 2 buyers and suppliers.
Read next: How to manufacture a lingerie brand!
