Today we are thrilled to interview Jennifer Coll, founder, CEO and designer of Avery Rose, a line of luxury lingerie hand crafted in America.
Sometimes unexpected events change our direction, like Dorothy on the yellow brick road. What were the steps that led you to start ‘Avery Rose Lingerie’?
Jennifer: It was and wasn’t unexpected for those who know me. Getting a divorce was the unexpected part but doing something creative definitely was not. I’ve worked my whole life since I was 14 and I’m an extremely creative person. I get the entrepreneur DNA from both of my parents and the creativity from my mother. She taught ceramics, made our clothes, had a floral business, and was always making beautiful things for our home and our family. I
learned a lot from watching her.
“Clients seeking luxurious lingerie need look no further than Avery Rose-Swarovski crystal bra straps, sumptuous silk camis & chemises, exquisite loungewear & robes-Luxe Lingerie is proud to be the exclusive boutique for Avery Rose in Beverly Hills.”
Christopher St. James,
Luxe Lingerie, Beverly Hills
What were your early business ventures that led up to the inception of ‘Avery Rose”?
Jennifer: I started working for my father’s business when I was 14 because I wanted a job. I started in the lowest position filing papers in the office and gradually moved up to manage his business at the highest level. I got my first stint as an entrepreneur making fake IDs for kids at my high school with the ceramic paints in my mother’s workshop. I charged $5-25 each depending on the complexity or urgency of the ID. I was 15 and it was a lucrative and fun side gig for me. Next, I fell into modeling when I was 17 and that career lasted for decades longer than the year or two, I was setting aside for it in my mind. During those years I started an Interior Design Company and also created a women’s golf clothing line.
Not everyone would describe their divorce as a catalyst for their success – can you elaborate?
Jennifer: While going through the divorce process I knew by starting a company, I could put the pieces of my life back together or at least regain control of my life. And quite frankly, I wanted to keep myself as busy as possible during the time I didn’t have my kids and I wanted them to see me thriving and happy, not devastated and sad. I got together many times with a friend of mine who wanted to leave her corporate job. We were throwing out ideas and we could never agree and when I told her I really wanted to start this company, she bailed. She had a lot of insight into a company like this because she was working for Sketchers in a senior level position.
True Confessions! "Avery Rose Lingerie" designer, Jennifer Coll, tells everything you need to know about being successful. Click To TweetThe idea came from shopping for new lingerie and not finding what I wanted online or in stores. I went all the way to Paris, to the lingerie trade show, trying to convince myself it was a bad idea and wound-up sourcing fabrics and trims instead. That’s how Avery Rose was conceived.
Who is the ‘Avery Rose’ woman? Who do you design for? How would you describe your muse and the inspiration for your collections?
Jennifer: The Avery Rose woman is a confident, independent, intelligent woman with sophisticated style. I would say she’s not an impulsive shopper, rather a thoughtful one. She appreciates luxury and is willing to pay for quality that will endure the test of time. She’s busy, working, parenting, volunteering whenever she can, has a full life, and is probably juggling a million things like so many women. She wants classic pieces that are staples in her closet.
I got my first stint as an entrepreneur making fake IDs for kids at my high school in my mother’s workshop.
Jennifer Coll, Avery Rose Lingerie
There are some nostalgic references in your glamorous designs such as the Roaring 20’s. What era in fashion history most inspires you and why?
Jennifer: I like to create timeless silhouettes with a modern twist. Things that will still resonate, bring joy and be worn for many years. I’m not designing fast fashion or following any trends. I design what I would want to wear and have faith that there’s a lot of other women that want to wear those pieces too.
Could you give our readers a peek into your creative process? Do you begin with fashion sketches and mood boards, doodles on napkins, or do you shop for materials and laces first?
Jennifer: There is not one particular method to my creative process. Sometimes a lace or print will inspire a piece or even a whole collection, and other times an idea may come to me in my sleep or when I’m watching a movie or taking my dogs for a walk. It’s not difficult for me to find inspiration in my everyday life. What’s hard for me is to narrow and streamline all of that inspiration into a cohesive collection. To edit all of the inspiration.
Practically speaking, how do you produce each collection – what are the steps for taking each individual piece from idea to finished sample line?
Jennifer: Ahhhhhh well, there’s a lot to each step along the way…. a lot!! I’ll just give you the abbreviated version. I start with an idea, a lace, hardware, an elastic, a color or whatever it is and then I sketch it freehand or on my iPad. From there I source the materials from my vendors or from existing material samples I’ve sourced along the way. Once I have all the components, then I have a pattern and a sample made. Then I start thinking about what season I’m making it for and what other complimenting styles will work to make up a
collection.
As important as saving the planet is, I also want the people making my clothes to be earn a good living and have a wonderful working environment.
Jennifer Coll, Avery Rose LIngerie
Jennifer: Then there are multiple fittings, changes, alterations, more samples. Rarely is a first sample perfect because you tweak, alter or change something. Once you have a final approved sample it goes to be graded for sizing.
Jennifer: Next, content, sizing and care labels need to be ordered. Decisions on how much you are producing, so that you can order the materials for production of that style. Then I have markers made. A marker is when they lay out a styleon the fabric to map out a plan to best cut according to the grain, fabric width, number of styles, fabric design to determine the maximum use of that fabric to limit waste. It’s all done on a computer with software.
What are a few helpful tips that you can share with new designers for successfully exhibiting at trade shows for the first time?
Jennifer: Be prepared with your materials (line sheets, order forms, look books, inventory, delivery dates). When you’re exhibiting at a trade show you want to have all your ducks in a row. Preparation is key. I would also highly recommend trying to set up appointments with key retailers ahead of time and not just hope someone walking by will want to stop and sit down and write an order. Also, make your booth stand out. Make your booth beautiful with great displays, photos, look books, Floral arrangements. I always have a live model show the line. Not everyone does this. I don’t understand why not. I think it makes a huge difference to see everything on a live model.
There is nothing more sustainable than clothing you want to wear repeatedly and keep for a long time – so, in making beautiful garments, you are ahead of the game! What other factors do you take into consideration to create sustainable lingerie?
Jennifer: Sustainable means so many different things when you’re talking about fashion or a brand and it’s a shame that people are attaching it as a buzzword in their marketing without really explaining HOW they’re being sustainable. Are they using all sustainable materials or just one here and there? Are they using a factory that implements sustainable practices? Is their packaging sustainable?
Jennifer: For us, first and foremost, we produce in the United States. By manufacturing here, we are cutting down on our planet’s carbon footprint while also employing Americans. As important as saving the planet is, I also want the people making my clothes to be earning a good living and have a wonderful working environment.
Jennifer: Secondly, I try as hard as possible to source my materials in the United States as well. Third, I do not overproduce. I make small productions and spend a lot of money on markers to ensure the least amount of waste possible and salvage anything I can with minimal to no waste. I also buy from like-minded sustainable companies and incorporate sustainable materials.
Jennifer: As a small business owner incorporating sustainability in every aspect of my business enables me to be financially prudent as well. Cutting down waste, materials and otherwise is fiscally beneficial to my business so it’s a win-win to be sustainable.
What in your opinion is the most important quality a designer needs to be successful in the fashion industry?
Jennifer: Perseverance. Stamina. Thick skin. Call it what you want, but the fashion industry is not for the faint of heart. You have to be willing to roll with the punches and learn from every set back or mistake. You must have an incredible work ethic, a hell of a lot of grit, and drive. Nothing happens overnight. You have to be in it for the long haul. Never compare yourself to anyone else and stay focused on your path.
Suppose you had to pack a suitcase for a weekend in Paris with only product from ‘Avery Rose’, what items would you include ‘to feel beautiful all day”?
Jennifer: Actually, I’m glad you asked this because that’s the direction I’m taking Avery Rose this year with a loungewear collection and a smattering of ready to wear pieces. Next year we have an even fuller range of RTW styles. So back to your question. I only wear my
own lingerie as it is every day regardless of where I am. If it was exclusively Avery Rose items, it would have to be summer in Paris, since I’ve yet to create my cashmere line so it can’t be too cold! I would take my slip dresses, silk camisoles and Solange silk
pants.
Your days are filled with designing, sourcing supplies, troubleshooting production issues, shipping, accounts receivable, and much more. What is one indulgence or treat you always make time for?
Jennifer: I make time for my children first and foremost. Owing a business is a 24/7 job as any entrepreneur knows. Whether I’m watching them at a sporting event or taking them out for an ice cream, every minute spent with them feels like an escape from my work filled days and nights and gives me balance, perspective and meaning to why I work so hard and do what I do. When I don’t have my kids, and I am not working or desperately need to reset, I love to golf, wake surf or travel.
So, all your designs are produced in the USA. That’s wonderful! Do you own your own factory?
Jennifer: Thank you! That was always very important to me from day
one. No, I don’t own a factory. That’s something I thought I wanted when I first started Avery Rose, but quickly realized that’s not even a feasible idea at least for the time being. I have enough on my plate with the million different elements of running my business and creating my collections. Owning a factory is a whole separate business in and of itself and I have abundant respect for the owners of my factories and everyone who works there.
What is one thing that has surprised you about running your own business?
Jennifer: How incredibly hard it actually is. How many hats I still have to wear. One beautiful thing is that every day is different! No two days are the same.
Murphy’s Law must play a big role in manufacturing lingerie. What is the most difficult part in the process, from sketch to finished garment?
Jennifer: Just know whatever you think can go wrong will go wrong. Even when you have a well-oiled process, there’s always something that goes wrong. You just have to learn how to deal with those setbacks, correct the problem, try to stop those problems from happening again and roll with the punches and come up with better solutions. I like to turn a problem into a positive and use it as an opportunity to do better. As far as the most difficult part of the process, it really depends on the day. Every day is a different obstacle or challenge, and usually multiples of both.
Last but not least! Could you drop a “knowledge bomb” for new designers who are hoping to enter the fashion industry? What is your most important piece of advice or something you wish you had known when you were starting out?
Jennifer: First of all, do your due diligence. There’s a great book I bought for my assistant who did not come from a fashion background called “The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing” by Kathleen Fasanella. I was trying to save time explaining something like tech packs to her and in a google search came across an article that referenced the book. I wish I had it before I started my fashion business. It’s definitely something I would recommend to anyone wanting to start out in fashion. Secondly, it takesa lot more money than you think to create your own line. Lastly, it’s not as glamorous as you perceive it to be. The process to get to the finished product is a
difficult one. People see a fashion show and equate that to what the business is: beautiful models strutting down the runway in beautiful clothes. But what you don’t see is that the dress they’re wearing might have taken a year, maybe even longer, to
create because it went through many design changes, iterations, pattern corrections,
construction issues, supply chain delays, etc.
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